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(Note: This article is a part of our 31-day series, “31 Days to a Whole Body Makeover“.)
Shaping and maintaining your eyebrows is an important part of your beauty routine. With over ten years experience as an esthetician under my belt, I’m excited to share with you my secrets to shaping beautiful, perfect eyebrows at home!
If the idea of shaping your own brows is terrifying, seeing an esthetician or a hairstylist who is very well-versed in brow shaping and waxing is truly the BEST option. It is so much easier for a second set of eyes to be able to measure and safely wax your hair. Waxing at home is incredibly dangerous, because burning the skin, or tearing the skin are a huge risk.
That said, I know many of you don’t have the time or the desire to drop by the salon, and want to be able to tweeze those strays, which is a perfectly safe and quick way to maintain your own brows at home.
Why Brow Maintenance is Important:
Taking the time to measure and CORRECTLY shape your brows makes a huge difference in the way your face looks.
Here are two examples of brows that need help. Both examples show that the extremes are incredibly harsh on our facial features, and that the proper care and shaping of the brows really soften and frame our facial features beautifully.
When eyebrows are overgrown, they tend to make us appear as though we are in a constant state of frustration and anger.
This example shows the exact opposite problem: Overly-tweezed brows. When we tweeze past where we should our tiny brows makes us look as though we are constantly in a state of being shocked and surprised! Not the most flattering look.
Do note that it is still better to under-tweeze than to over-tweeze your brows. Brow hair takes an incredibly long time to grow back in, and many brow hairs may never grow back in at all.
Measuring Your Brows:
To make sure you avoid the above mistakes, I have created for you a visual guide so you can easily measure your own brows at home!
Use a cuticle pusher or a pencil as a straight line to make your measurements on your face. Use either a lip liner or an eyeliner pencil to draw a little mark above and next to the brow, where the measuring tool falls. Now make the commitment that you will not cross over that line while tweezing! Those are your guides. Do not pass!
In step one, lay your straight measuring tool going from the outside corner of your mouth, to the inside corner of your eye. Make a small mark with eyeliner above your brow, right along that same path.
In step two, lay your straight measuring tool from the outside corner of your nostril to the outer corner of your eye. Make a small mark with eyeliner above your brow, right along that same path.
In step three, lay your guide in a straight line, parallel with the mid-line of your face. Line it up just at the outer edge of the iris of your eye. This is where your eyebrow arch will be, and where it is safe to tweeze a few extra hairs, tapering off at the very outside end of your eyebrow, for a more dramatic arch. NOTE: Although that is the measurement we learn as estheticians, this measurement is one where you will need to use your best judgement, because every brow arch is different. It should be fairly easy to see where your eyebrows naturally arch.
While tweezing under the arch of your eyebrows, you might wonder how thin you are supposed to tweeze your brows. The best rule of thumb is to look at the height of your eye, and use that measurement as the same height that should remain between the bottom of your brow to the top of your open eye. The safest thing is always to not disturb the shape of your brow, but just tweeze those little strays that are obviously not part of your main brow.
Lay your tweezers flat against the skin to prevent accidentally nipping and tearing your skin. Gently pull each stray hair, one at a time, in the direction of the hair growth.
If you find your eyelids feeling sensitive, numbing with an ice cube helps.
Tools of the Trade:
In case you are not sure what items I am referring to, I have included some recommended products so that you can see exactly what I mean.
Investing in good tweezers is a must. Cheap brands tend to wear out quickly, and before long, they no longer grasp the hair well, and the hair breaks when you try to pull it. My favorite as a professional has always been Tweezerman tweezers . Excellent tweezers.
For the very BEST results, use a lighted, magnified cosmetic mirror. This contains the same light that we estheticians use to allow us to really see even the blondest hairs. (You will also suddenly notice every blemish on your skin using this type of light. We will for sure be going over blemishes in the very near future!)
Whether you are tweezing or getting your brows professionally waxed, tea tree / melaleuca oil is something I just cannot live without, and would never let my clients leave the spa without having applied some to their skin. Tea tree oil, first and foremost, kills the bacteria to prevent any breaking out in those freshly open pores. It also soothes and speeds recovery time, so you won’t be so red and puffy after cleaning up your brows. It will also remove the guide marks you made on your face with the eyeliner, or lip liner.
As mentioned before, a cuticle pusher is a great, inexpensive tool for measuring your brows to make sure you are getting those perfect brows!
You will need an pencil eyeliner to mark your brows once measured with the cuticle pusher.
Advanced Brow Care:
Trimming Your Eyebrows:
Some of us are blessed with very long hairs in our brows, but it is super easy to trim those long hairs so they lay down clean and neat!
To trim your brow hairs, first comb your hair straight up using a Brow Brush to comb your hair straight up.
All of your brow, brush straight up. It is going to look like this image:
Use brow shaping scissors to trim to trim right along the upper brow-line starting from the outside edge, working in toward the center of your face. Brush your brows back into place. For a little extra hold, use just a tiny dab of hair gel over the brow. Comb in.
Tinting /Dyeing Your Eyebrows:
This is something that I have to tell you NOT to do at home! Hair dye is not made for your brows, and can (and has!) cause blindness if in your eyes. Estheticians use a vegetable-based dye that is proven safe for the eyes, that can only be purchased professionally. For tinted brows, please leave it to the professionals.
Coloring in Your Eyebrows:
This is the best alternative to dyeing your brows.
Find a color that is close to the color of your hair, or slightly darker. Blonde-haired women can get a few shades darker. My natural eyebrows are super blonde, and I have to use a powder at least four shades darker to get them to show up!
For a more dramatic or nighttime look, fill in your eyebrows using an pencil eyeliner.
For the record, as for the model I’ve been using with the seemingly “perfect eyebrows”, I can tell that her makeup artist used both pencil and powder on her brows, and it obviously works for her! So mix it up and find what works best for you!
I hope this tutorial helps you easily shape and maintain your eyebrows at home! If you still have questions, please feel free to ask me in the comments below!
Image credit: My beautiful brow model is courtesy of marin at FreeDigitalPhotos.net!